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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.